Top Tips …
Trousers act as an anchor for your stylish outfit. By swapping one pair for another you can completely change your image BUT you must make sure they fit properly.
Trousers are particularly important as the base of your outfit and the way they fit can determine whether your body appears short or tall. A high rise waist with along straight leg will make you appear taller whilst a leg finished off at the bottom by boot tucks, turn ups or other trouser breaks coupled with a low rise waist will make you appear shorter!
What is a trouser break?
A ‘break’ is the fold or bend above the hemline which is created by the fabric where it meets your shoe. Thus the trouser kinks or breaks above your shoe. If a trouser has no break then the front only grazes the shoe and will be unbent. There are of course varying degrees of ‘break’ from ‘full’ break where it could develop two folds and look too long and a bit untidy depending on the trouser type through to ‘no’ break where there is no fold at all and could look a poor fit as it looks too short on you. A ‘half’ break is the optimum for most styles where the trouser bends is noticeably but not significantly.
Suit and formal trousers should sit a bit higher above your hip bones and fit nicely on the waist without the need for a belt although the belt would make the trouser look better. The key is to achieve some drape but avoid them looking too large or too loose – so avoid pleats! A ‘half’ break would be the best for these trousers.
Cord and Chinos should fit a bit slimmer than formal or suit trousers and worn a bit lower on the waist normally. However men with a larger tummy might prefer a higher rise to sit above it! These styles are very popular in Cords in larger sizes. Chinos look better slim without being too slim in the seat so that the pocket flares out too much and doesn’t lay flat against the trouser. A full break in the leg looks the best on casual chinos and once again avoid front pleats to look good. When choosing your size please remember chinos will stretch slightly in the waist and seat with wear!
Jeans of course are the most casual of trouser styles and there a many options available. They tend to be worn and look at their best even lower on the waist than a chino by perhaps an inch or so. They are at their best slim and tight with a straight leg – they look flattering on most body types. However avoid jeans that are tight on the thigh and loose on the knee so a slight taper below the knee may be preferable if you have large thighs – beware! With jeans a minimum of a full break looks best with some people preferring longer legs that even break twice – racey eh?
One final short thought!
When choosing your trousers always remember trousers can be easily tailored to be shortened but rarely lengthened …